by Jackie Carroll
Heathers are low-growing, shrub-like perennials that
blossom into a sea of color. They look great planted
with dwarf conifers, especially when a variety of
shapes, colors and textures are used. Interplant late
flowering varieties with deciduous plants that have
colorful foliage in the fall for a striking display,
and use them in camellia and rhododendron beds to
add summer color. They are also used in rock gardens
and as groundcovers.
Heathers enjoy an sunny site with good air circulation
and an acid soil that doesn't dry out or become waterlogged.
Acid soil is a must for summer heathers, and if your
pH is too high, you should amend with aluminum sulfate
before planting if necessary. Pale leaves and slow
growth indicate that the soil is not acid enough.
You can help the soil retain moisture in the heat
of summer by applying a mulch. Two inches of bark
chips or cocoa shells make a good mulch for a bed
of heathers.
Care and Maintenance Use a fertilizer designed
for acid-loving plants in spring and at regular intervals
through the growing season as the package directs.
It's best to use a soluble fertilizer rather than
one that has to be worked into the soil because the
roots are very shallow, and you can easily damage
them by trying to cultivate around the plants. To
encourage strong growth, shear off the plants in early
spring before flowering begins.
Heathers are susceptible to fungus, and if your summers
are hot and humid, you may want to have a fungicide
on hand so you can treat your plants at the first
sign of infection.
Taking Cuttings The best time to propagate
heathers is mid- to late summer. Fill a pot with a
mixture of half sand and half sterile peat moss, and
make holes for your cuttings with a thin twig.
Clip a 1-1/2 inch piece from the tip of a non-flowering
shoot. Make sure the shoot is from the current season's
growth. Strip the foliage from the lower half of the
stem with your fingers, taking care not to damage
the stem, and dip the lower end of the stem in rooting
hormone. Make sure the rooting hormone covers the
part of the stem where you have removed the foliage,
then tap gently to remove the excess.
Place the cuttings in the holes that you have prepared
and water the pot thoroughly but gently so as not
to disturb the cuttings. Once the pot has drained,
cover it with a plastic bag, making sure the sides
of the bag don't touch your plants. If necessary,
insert a few twigs in the soil to hold the bag away
from the plants. Leave the bag in place for 6-8 weeks.
About the Author Jackie
Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading
internet destination from gardening information and
ideas.
Visit GardenGuides.com: http://www.gardenguides.com
or subscribe to Perennial Gardening News to have the
latest articles and information from GardenGuides.com
delivered to you every week: mailto:join-perennials@lists.gardenguides.com